July 12, 1997
Hey all,
You know, I just looked at my first update, from Dublin, and I realized these updates are getting much more frequent and lengthy. Oh well.
Getting out of Krakow turned out to be quite a production. We had tickets for a train direct to Prague, but we had heard rumors that there might be problems due to the flooding here, which is the worst flooding in about 100 years and is really taxing the local economies and emergency support structures. We got to the station, and the signs said that the train was going to Prague. However, when the train showed up, it only had one sleeping car. I showed my ticket to the conductor, and we had a lovely conversation (in Russian) in which he assured me that my ticket was worthless, the train was going to Vienna and just skipping Prague, and that he had no clue how I could get to Prague. At this point, my mood improved.
I'm not kidding actually. I was running between the platform and the ticket counter (where the cashier assured me (again in Russian) that the train was going to Prague and she refused to help us, even if we weren't allowed on the train) excited that I was using my language skills in a productive way, helping lost Norwegians, Californians, and Australians by translating for them, and generally enjoyed the mayhem that naturally occurs while traveling. I was well and truly annoying.
After we watched our train leave the station, I had to fight through the line in order to get tickets for a train leaving in 40 minutes to Dresden, from which we could get to Prague (we hoped). Fortunately, I got a reservation, a partial refund, and we were off.
The train was packed, hot, and we had no tickets. We ended up paying 4 times through the night for tickets, at least one of which was likely a bribe. The train was uncomfortable, and I ended up cuddling up trying to get comfortable for about 3 hours with a lesbian exotic dancer from San Francisco. Quite a strange night.
So, Prague was relief after the silliness needed to get here (both times I've come here have been under strange circumstances, and I've had no trouble with any other city. I don't understand). This city is possibly my favorite on the trip so far. The city has incredible beauty in its architecture, from the castletop cathedral looking over the city to the Old Town Square surrounded with church spires where one is likely to hear a professional-quality string quartet, to the famous Charles Bridge. Even better than the beauty is the feeling this place exudes. It has shaken off the communist yoke extremely well, and feels completely western compared with Budapest and Krakow. There is music everywhere (you can't walk down some streets without being badgered by people selling tickets to Handel, Bach, Mozart...), and there are people everywhere. There are a thousand conversations at night on the Charles bridge, and each one is relaxed and feels so right. The only negative part of this city this time were the overly-pushy prostitutes, but if you avoid the lower part of Wenceslas Square after midnight, you can avoid them, too.
Last night, I went to my first Opera. Don Giovanni is playing its opening night tonight at the Liechtenstein Palace courtyard open-air theater, and we got half-priced tickets last night to see the final dress rehearsal (hopefully, we'll be in Warsaw tonight, so we had to miss that). Because it was a rehearsal, the audience was almost empty, and we had whatever seats we wanted. We chatted with some chorus members before the show, and during the intermission, Eugene chided Loperello for smoking (why ruin such a fine instrument!?). We took the very front seats in the second act, and at one point, Loperello was right above us as Eugene lit up a cigarette. Without breaking his music or character, Loperello put two fingers to his lips, asking to bum a cigarette! That was a classic moment in Opera right there, baby. I didn't know if I would like Opera, but I really enjoyed it. I'll have to try it again sometime...
Well, we're headed to Warsaw via Dresden tonight. We should be in Russia in 3 days, and I am excited. These updates have gotten pretty frequent, but that might change as we move east (a sigh of relief from mail servers everywhere).
Take care
Lance
